MARSEILLE: Avignon for the day; Dinner at La Kahena

Bonjour Everyone! We decided this morning to go to Avignon .for the day Avignon is city in southeastern France within the Provence-Alps-Cote d'Azur region. We took a smooth train ride and arrived at 09:50 am after a 1.5 hr ride. On the way to Avignon, the train made a stop at Arles. It was tempting to get off the train, because Arles is a fabulous place to visit in itself. It has a spectacular and well preserved Coliseum and if you are a Vincent Van Gogh fan, there's lots of history related to Vincent in Arles. Because we had been fortunate and had seen Arles extensively on a previous visit just three years ago, we kept to our plan and continued on to Avignon.

We had been in Avignon several years ago - so we decided to return and spend the day strolling around the medieval, narrow streets. Avignon is on the left bank of the Rhone river. The old part of the city is enclosed by it's ramparts (stone walls). This is the really interesting area!

The first thing we did was to return to the bed & breakfast where we had stayed for 3 night almost 8 years ago, but Aida wasn't home - too bad! This is her place. Beautiful interior!

So we walked across Place Pie Placo Pio, where there was an antique market occurring. We took a quick look, but nothing really caught our eye. There was a neat, old copper pan for 60 euro, but that kind of thing is difficult to bring back (and too expensive). As well, I saw some amazing lawn ornaments. Unfortunately I didn't get a photo of them.. After, we walked over to Les Halles market. The first time I saw this market, I just couldn't believe that the walls of a building could be covered in green plants. A beautiful lush garden growing healthily on the outside of the market! This photo doesn't do the wall justice at all!

Inside Les Halles market, was also a pleasure to the eyes. Once again, another large indoor market with everything you could want for a healthy meal - and all fresh! What a lovely way to live - you pop by the market after work and pick up some delicious food. I just love these radishes, and we can almost get them back at home.

Here's one shop that had the biggest variety of salts and herbs!

And look at these delicious Provencal tarts and quiches, all made and sold by this sweet lady!

Then we walked by the bakery. It's not often you see large meringues available to buy, and also delicious breads. You know it's great when the locals are coming in and buying it!

After that, we went into a lovely, old cathedral called Eglise et Cloitre des Carmes.

One of the things that struck me again was the unusual, narrow streets of Avignon. The following picture gives you an idea, but it's certainly not the narrowest of streets we have seen in here!

I will never forget the first time we walked through these streets. They are so very atmospheric - especially at night. I felt like I was in the days of mystery and bows and arrows, and capes...

We found a really neat square with some rickety tables trying to balance themselves on uneven cobblestone. The square was called Place des Chataignes. It was bursting with sunlight. We couldn't help but sit and soak up the warmth for an hour or so. The mistral (that northwesterly wind), kept winding its way down the narrow streets, and finding us wherever we were today. I must say we have now been formally introduced to 'Le Mistral' in Provence. It is very real and is a very strong, chilly wind!

We then walked to the Palais des Popes (Palace of the Popes). Although we had seen the palace before, we never took the time to tour it. It was very interesting. What is really significant about Avignon, is that from 1309 to 1377, seven successive popes resided in the Palais des Popes. The Popes controlled Avignon until 1791, but during the French Revolution - Avignon then became a part of France.

In one of the rooms (the Consistorie), we learned that Queen Joanna I of Naples, Countess of Provence, came to Avignon to this palace in 1348 to plead her case to Pope Clement VI. Apparently she was accused of having had her first husband assassinated. It sounds like she had to sell the city of Avignon to the pope to get back in everyone's good graces. She sold Avignon to the Pope for 80,000 florins.

The Palais des Popes was a fascinating place to visit. It was a bit overwhelming, because there is so much information, and it's impossible to retain it all. Included in the price of our ticket, was a tour of Pont Avignon. Apparently a very young man named Saint- Benezet was commissioned by God to build a bridge over the Rhone river. The bridge is really called Pont Saint-Benezet, but is better known as Pont d'Avignon. We all know the French song about the bridge: "Sur le Pont D'Avignon"..."On the bridge of Avignon, we all dance there, we all dance there..." so the song goes. The whole song is available to see on line.

The bridge was built starting in the 13th century and was damaged several times by the floods of the Rhone river.

So after walking around the town extensively, seeing the Palace of the Popes, and Pont d'Avignon, we decided to start the journey back to Marseille. It turned out to be a good thing we left when we did. We chose a 5:17 pm train out. The train made numerous stops at small towns but then it came to a complete stop at Miramas. After about 10 minutes, we started wondering why we weren't moving. Finally a person came to tell us that there was a "big problem" on the tracks and no trains would be getting through to Marseille tonight. Apparently there was a fire which was preventing the train from advancing. We were all directed off the train and onto a bus. So, instead of a one hour and nine minute train ride, it turned out to be a 3 hour trip back to Marseille! Everything turned out fine though, and we arrived safe and sound. We were quite chilled when we finally got back to the apartment. We warmed up a little and then went to a recommended Tunisian restaurant called 'La Kahena'. The food was delicious. I tried the vegetable couscous, and Ron tried Mergeuz sausage (lamb sausage, flavored with a red sauce called "harrissa") on couscous. The meals were hot and delicious! Here's a picture of my dinner. Unfortunately the picture of Ron's dinner mysteriously disappeared.

Well, that's all for today. Tomorrow is Good Friday! It's also our last full day in Marseille and we are really looking forward to retracing some of our steps! (Don't be surprised if there isn't much of a blog tomorrow!) Bon Soir from Marseille! Karen